Symbiotic Travel:
Exploring Human x Nature Partnerships in Remote Cultures

Over the past year and a half, the Edges of Earth expedition has traveled across the globe, driven by a singular, powerful question: what is life like on the fringes, the outliers, the most remote and interesting places on Earth? This question emerged after countless hours spent on dive expeditions over six years, exploring some of the planet’s most untouched corners. In these far-flung places, remarkable stories of resilience and ingenuity were uncovered—tales of people who have found ways to live in harmony with nature, preserving the ecosystems that sustain them. More often than not, these stories seem to be overshadowed by the noise of modern life. Yet the wisdom unearthed through them offers valuable insight into what it means to coexist with the natural world in its rawest form.

Exploring the Edges of Earth. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

From coral reefs humming with life to ancient kelp forests, and from glacier-fed ice caves to vast underground river systems, these destinations from the global expedition showcase Earth’s most authentic and greatest hits. Yet, they also expose a sobering reality: many of these ecosystems are under threat from human activity. The more remote the location, the more apparent the fragility of the bond between humanity and nature becomes.

These journeys to the “edges” grant an unparalleled privilege—to witness the beauty of these places that still remain and the symbiotic relationships that exist between people and their environment. These ecosystems each have communities acting on their behalf as custodians, viewing nature not as a backdrop to life but as a partner in survival. In these places, guardians take only what they need, nurture the resources they rely on, and work tirelessly to maintain a balance that modernity often forgets.

But reaching the edges of Earth isn’t merely about traveling to the planet’s outermost corners or ticking destinations off a list. It’s a mindset. It’s about exploring consciously, driven by curiosity and purpose. It means embracing the unfamiliar, listening to local wisdom, and learning from the ways guardians interact with their surroundings. Whether in the heart of a thriving epicenter or on an isolated island, this mindset encourages a reevaluation of how we live, travel, and give back to the places that give us so much.

Diving some of the farthest corners of Earth—Matanuska Glacier, Alaska. Photo Credit: Adam Moore

Among those explored, a few stand out as examples of what’s possible when humanity and nature harmonize. These places, and their keepers, offer a glimpse into a future where balance is not just an ideal but a way of life.

TETAPARE, SOLOMON ISLANDS

Tetepare Island, situated in the Western Province of the Solomon Islands, is one of the last wild spaces. Spanning over 120 square kilometers of dense rainforests, mangroves, and rugged coastline, it’s the largest uninhabited island in the South Pacific. And with that, it holds a mysterious past. Approximately 150 – 200 years ago, its original inhabitants—warriors with their own language and culture—abandoned the island in a mass exodus. While the exact reasons remain speculative, theories range from disease and famine to ancestral beliefs tied to “sea devil magic.” Today, Tetepare is protected by the Tetepare Descendants’ Association (TDA), a group of descendants now residing on nearby islands, such as Rendova, who are dedicated to preserving their ancestral land and its surrounding seas.

Meeting the TDA on Tetepare. Photo Credit: Adam Moore

The TDA was formed in response to aggressive exploitation by international logging companies targeting the Solomon Islands for its rich tropical timber, with Tetepare firmly on the list. With deforestation decimating the region, a small group of passionate descendants came together to secure legal ownership of Tetepare, shielding it from logging, commercial fishing, and other resource extraction. Conservation work by the TDA includes monitoring no-take marine zones and studying the island’s remarkable wildlife, including a stable coconut crab population—a stark contrast to its decline worldwide. 

Recognizing that sustainable protection of Tetepare must also benefit its people, the organization launched a scholarship program two decades ago to support members with school fees. Each year, TDA provides at least 60—and when funding allows, up to 100—high school and university scholarships, ensuring that even those in remote areas who cannot directly benefit from ecotourism or conservation work have access to education. By investing in future generations, TDA strengthens the connection between people and place, reinforcing the value of preserving Tetepare for years to come.

Learning how the TDA respects their home. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Tetepare is a prime example of how human ingenuity, willpower, determination and urgency were able to secure the fate of one island. Because of these guardians, the island currently serves as a vital hub for scientific research and environmental study, offering critical insights into the terrestrial and marine ecosystems of the region. This work generates necessary income for the TDA and fosters collaboration with international researchers, advancing global understanding of biodiversity and conservation—not only in the Solomons, but worldwide. By blending local stewardship with global partnerships, the TDA has created a model of coexistence that balances ecological preservation with sustainable development. Tetepare survived the fight against external pressures then, and continues to do so now, keeping its place as the last true wild in the country.

KOH SURIN ISLANDS, THAILAND

In Thailand’s Surin National Park, the Moken community—an Indigenous group with centuries-long ties to the sea—offers another example of resilience. Over 4,000 years, the Moken lived as sea nomads traveling around the borders of Thailand and Myanmar. However, after being relocated by government authorities following the 2004 tsunami, they now face challenges of sedentary life. This drastic transition from their roots has exposed them to economic hardship, cultural erosion, and the pressures of modernity. Despite these obstacles, the Moken continue to push on with their deep respect for nature, sustaining themselves through traditional practices like freediving, spearfishing for sustenance, as well as crafting and music—all while navigating the complexities of integration into Thai society.

The Moken people are sea nomads. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Key to the preservation of their culture is the work of Andaman Discoveries, led by Bodhi Garrett and Tui Chomphusri. This social enterprise bridges the gap between the Moken’s traditions and the modern world through sustainable tourism and community development programs. Visitors that come into the National Park can engage with the Moken, as long as they are open and willing to understand their way of life. Learning to weave with recycled materials, exploring medicinal plants, and participating in traditional spearfishing demonstrations is what keeps the Moken traditions alive. Meanwhile, the accompanying nonprofit, the North Andaman Network Foundation, empowers the Moken to protect their environment, pursue education, and manage sustainable initiatives like mangrove planting and marine plastics recycling—which is only possible through tourism and donor dollars.

A Moken elder recapping what life was like living on the sea. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Living among the Moken is humbling and one of the most confronting ways of understanding how people once truly lived in balance with the sea. The Moken elders’ bond with their natural world and ongoing determination to preserve their cultural heritage is powerful, leaving a lasting mark on those who experience it. And this was one of the first times on expedition that the positive benefits of conscious tourism were clear—the kind that directly supports the Indigenous community’s efforts to sustain their ancient ways of life.

MANNAR, SRI LANKA

The coastal community of Mannar in northwest Sri Lanka uses fishing as both a livelihood and a way of life. Historically, the fisherfolk here practiced sustainable methods, taking only what was necessary and fostering a connection with the sea—understanding its rhythms, movements and seasonal shifts. However, modern challenges, including overfishing, environmental degradation, and illegal bottom trawling, have threatened these practices. Bottom trawling, particularly by Indian vessels, not only depletes fish stocks but also damages critical marine ecosystems, exacerbating tensions between the communities and putting the livelihoods of Mannar’s traditional fisherfolk at huge risk.

Traditional Mannar fishing boat coming back from sea at 5am. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Amidst these challenges, organizations like the Lanka Environment Fund (LEF) and its MARESSOL initiative are stepping in to address critical issues such as abandoned fishing gear and marine pollution. By collaborating with local communities, policymakers, and environmental groups, MARESSOL aims to promote sustainable fishing practices and improve the management of these critical marine ecosystems that are used for survival by Mannar’s communities. Traditional fisherfolk, like 75-year-old P.S. Kurus Thaaluvadu, told us about preserving time-honored practices like net repair and rhythmic teamwork on the shores every morning at 4:00am that reflect their connection to the Ocean and the fish themselves.

Meeting 75-year-old P.S. Kurus Thaaluvadu, learning about life on the water. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

The contrast between traditional and commercial fishing practices in Mannar was challenging to witness. While the traditional fisherfolk welcome outsiders with open arms to learn about their practices, the commercial fishing operations tend to be closed off and secretive, as if they knew just how destructive their practices truly were. While the traditional fisherfolk work collaboratively to maintain their heritage, commercial operations focus solely on profit, often contributing to overfishing and habitat destruction. Efforts like those of LEF are crucial to ensuring a sustainable future for the Gulf of Mannar’s biodiversity and the communities that rely on it, offering hope that cultural traditions and marine ecosystems can coexist among modern change.

GOING TO THE EDGES

Circumnavigating the world reveals just how deeply humanity and nature are intertwined. Across the planet, frontline communities navigate the thin balance between preserving their ecosystems and ensuring their own survival. While their methods vary by culture and place, one universal thread unites them: respect.

Uncovering symbiosis between humans and nature on the very edges—Isle of Skye, Scotland. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Local stewards of land and sea understand that without their natural resources, there is no life. This profound respect fosters unwavering commitments to preservation, often with very limited resources. Stories rooted in traditional knowledge and community-based solutions inspire hope, demonstrating that coexistence is possible—even amid widespread environmental challenges. These examples remind humanity that a sustainable future is within reach if the values that have guided generations are reconnected with modern practices.

The “edges” are defined not only by natural beauty but by the determination of their ancestral stewards. The descendants of Tetepare, the nomadic Moken, and the fisherfolk of Mannar epitomize resilience. Even in the face of modern challenges like climate change, overfishing, and cultural erosion, they show that symbiosis with nature is not just possible—it is essential. Their efforts urge a rethinking of humanity’s relationship with the natural world—not as something to conquer or consume, but as a partner in survival, deserving of care and advocacy. These communities offer a vision of a more connected and balanced world.

WATCH THE STORY REEL

Time Capsules of Climate Change:
Traveling to Future Eco-Regions

Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) are critical tools in the fight to conserve Ocean ecosystems, protect marine biodiversity, and sustain the livelihoods of communities that depend on the sea. Yet, the effectiveness of MPAs hinges not only on their designation but on how well they are managed and enforced. Creating a protected area is a significant first step, but it takes robust planning, resources, and long-term commitment from governments, scientists, and local communities to ensure these areas fulfill their potential. Globally, less than 3.5% of the Ocean is currently under some form of protection, and within that fraction, only a small percentage are no-take zones—where extraction and destruction are fully prohibited.

Working closely with Marine Conservation Institute, the Edges of Earth Expedition team has explored some of the most successful MPAs on the planet to better understand what makes them work. As pioneers in global marine conservation, Marine Conservation Institute is not only leading the charge in creating a worldwide system of highly protected Blue Parks but also maintaining the Marine Protection Atlas, the most comprehensive database of MPAs worldwide.  The Blue Parks title has been awarded to some of the best managed and enforced MPAs like Chumbe Island in Zanzibar, Tanzania, and the Revillagigedo Archipelago off Mexico’s Baja California Sur—places that typify the potential of well-established and well-managed marine refuges.

Diving Revillagigedo Archipelago’s Socorro Island. Photo Credit: Andi Cross

Throughout the journey around the world and back, Edges of Earth has also found emerging sites with immense potential to become future climate refuges. These up-and-coming areas are often at the heart of innovative research, grassroots conservation efforts, and community-led initiatives aimed at preserving biodiversity in the face of a changing planet. Recent travels have taken the team to places like the newly created marine park spanning Cocos and Christmas Islands, to the oyster restoration efforts happening in Scotland, and to the shark-tagging initiatives in La Paz, Mexico. Each of these sites represents a critical opportunity to expand marine conservation efforts globally and foster a sustainable future for the Ocean.

ARGYLL, SCOTLAND

Scotland’s landscapes, often shrouded in mist and steeped in a complex history of extraction, bear the marks of centuries of human activity. Once home to vast temperate rainforests and thriving marine ecosystems, much of its natural heritage has been lost to deforestation, farming, and overfishing. Native oyster beds, once abundant in Scotland’s waters, were harvested nearly to extinction, leaving a critical gap in the ecosystem. Yet, along the tranquil shores of Loch Melfort in Argyll, the Kilchoan Melfort Trust (KMT) is working to reverse this. Dedicated to rewilding and marine conservation, KMT is restoring Scotland’s ecological balance and transforming this corner of the country into a safe haven.

Oyster restoration work with Marnik Van Catuer of KMT. Photo Credit: Adam Moore

Central to KMT’s work is its oyster restoration program, which focuses on reintroducing the native European flat oyster. Unlike the fast-growing Pacific oysters common in today’s Scottish markets, these native oysters take years to mature but are essential to marine health, filtering up to 240 liters of water daily and creating habitats for diverse marine life. While living onsite at the remote estate, the expedition team saw firsthand how the oysters are raised in a “living laboratory,” nurtured in cages until they are strong enough to be released into historically significant locations. By rebuilding these shellfish reefs, the estate is restoring these lost populations, revitalizing ecosystems and creating long-term biodiversity hotspots. In just a few years, KMT has released over 50,000 oysters, offering a hopeful glimpse into how focused conservation efforts can heal damaged environments.

KMT is working to ensure their estate is a climate refuge. Photo Credit: Andi Cross

KMT has other climate resilience initiatives including seaweed farming, marine mapping, and species-based science. Collaborations with organizations like Tritonia Scientific enable the use of cutting-edge technologies to map seabeds and guide sustainable marine policies. Shark & Skate Scotland is another organization that allows KMT to better understand the critical marine biodiversity within Loch Melfort. This fusion of science and community-driven action positions KMT as a model for ecological restoration. By reconnecting with the region’s natural heritage, the trust is demonstrating how Scotland’s landscapes and seascapes can move from depleted to thriving, offering a blueprint for climate resilience.

CHRISTMAS ISLAND, AUSTRALIA

Learning about the newly established Cocos (Keeling) and Christmas Island Marine Parks, established only in 2022, the expedition team decided it was critical to head to what appears as no more than two tiny specs on the map between Indonesia and Australia. Together, these marine parks span over 744,000 square kilometers, offering protection to some of the Indian Ocean’s most biodiverse ecosystems. Christmas Island, with its steep drop-offs and nearly 75% coral cover, and Cocos, with its tranquil lagoon and 27 islands, face rising climate challenges. Among these is the preservation of the iconic red crabs of Christmas Island, whose migration is a spectacle of nature and a cornerstone of the island’s ecological balance.

Christmas Island is nearly all National Park. Photo Credit: Adam Moore

Every year, over 100 million red crabs embark on a remarkable migration from the dense island forests to the Ocean to spawn. Triggered by the first rains of the wet season, typically in October or November, this event is tightly tied to rainfall patterns and lunar cycles. Males lead the journey to the coast, digging burrows where mating takes place. The females then release tens of thousands of eggs into the Ocean during high tide, timed with the last quarter of the moon. The larvae spend weeks in the Ocean before metamorphosing into juvenile crabs and making their perilous journey back to the forest. This migration sustains the red crab population, while also fueling the marine ecosystem as well, as the eggs and larvae serve as a critical food source for fish and other marine species.

Christmas Island red crab getting ready for migration. Photo Credit: Adam Moore

However, climate change is disrupting this finely tuned process. Unpredictable rainfall patterns are delaying or interrupting the migration, leaving crabs vulnerable to dehydration and exhaustion. Without sufficient rain, the crabs struggle to complete their journey, and risk significant population losses. Changes in Ocean currents also threaten the survival of crab larvae, potentially sweeping them too far from the island or into areas densely populated by predators. Despite these challenges, innovative conservation efforts on the island, led by the Christmas Island National Park team, help safeguard the migration by reducing human-caused fatalities. This is just one of many of the park’s efforts to ensure the islands remain a climate refuge, while other initiatives focus on protecting coral reefs that rank among the healthiest in the world and monitoring key environmental indicators within the MPA.

Coral reefs of Christmas Island. Photo Credit: Adam Moore

At the heart of these initiatives is a community-driven approach, ensuring that conservation aligns with local needs and values. On Cocos, the marine park was established through extensive consultation with Cocos Malay, the native ethnic group of the island, in creating a management plan that reflects their ancestral connection to the sea. Similarly, on Christmas Island, efforts to restore balance in the forests and protect critical marine habitats are intertwined with the islanders’ livelihoods.

LA PAZ, MEXICO

The Gulf of California, once hailed by Jacques Cousteau as the “aquarium of the world,” is a shadow of its former glory today. Decades of overfishing, industrial exploitation, and climate change have left its waters depleted, with species like hammerhead sharks and groupers now rare or absent. Yet, amidst these challenges, La Paz has become a hot spot on the conservation map, largely thanks to the work of Pelagios Kakunjá, led by Dr. James Ketchum.

Shark research with Dr. James Ketchum. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

James has spent decades researching sharks, rays, and other pelagic species to inform conservation strategies and advocate for MPAs across the region. His work has already contributed to landmark successes, including the Whale Shark Refuge near La Paz and the expansive Revillagigedo Archipelago MPA. But now, he’s turning his focus to a new vision: creating a “migration corridor” that connects key marine hotspots, including Loreto National Park, Espiritu Santo National Park, and Cabo Pulmo National Park.

But this vision hinges on collaboration with local communities, particularly artisanal fishers who have relied on these waters for generations. Their traditional knowledge is invaluable for identifying critical habitats and designing MPAs that benefit both marine ecosystems and livelihoods. However, this balance is precarious. While many artisanal fishers employ sustainable methods like hook-and-line fishing, others have resorted to destructive practices like gill netting, exacerbating conditions for the already fragile fish populations. Industrial fishing poses an even greater threat, with large-scale operations depleting stocks and wielding outsized influence over fisheries management. James and his team of local fishers tag sharks to collect data off the shores of the remote Isla Partida to better understand how these sharks migrate to the next refuge in Mexico. 

 Dr. James Ketchum and his team. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Climate change adds another layer of urgency to these efforts. Rising sea temperatures are driving species migrations, altering ecosystems, and causing the death of critical habitats like black corals and sea fans. Yet, through innovative tools like Global Fishing Watch and AI-driven data analysis, James and his team are identifying new conservation opportunities. As he puts it, the Gulf of California is at a crossroads: the choices made today will determine whether this marine haven can recover or continue its decline.

OJOCHAL, COSTA RICA

Then there’s Costa Rica— a place synonymous with ecotourism, a leader in terrestrial conservation that has protected 30% of its land through national parks and reserves. But its marine environments haven’t received the same attention. While 50% of Costa Rica’s waters technically fall into MPAs, less than 1% are fully implemented or actively managed. That gap inspired a visit to Ojochal, a small coastal village on the South Pacific side of the country where Innoceana, a local nonprofit, is working to establish a critical new MPA. This proposed zone would connect Parque Nacional Marino Ballena, Parque Nacional Corcovado, and Reserva Biológica Isla del Cano—creating an essential corridor for biodiversity and conservation.

Costa Rica is home to wild spaces and places. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

Innoceana runs science-focused expeditions, launching out of the SCP Corcovado Wilderness Lodge, an eco-partner of the nonprofits. From this remote base, Innoceana ventures to Cano Island, a national refuge moving with marine life. The waters surrounding the island are home to everything from hawksbill turtles to migratory whales passing through on their journeys from Alaska. Their work involves a wide variety of testing and studying, one of which is water quality monitoring. They focus on measuring the effects of agricultural runoff from nearby palm plantations—an issue that impacts both the marine ecosystem and local communities reliant on clean water. They also document the marine life passing through Cano Island’s sites, further bolstering the case for more MPA protection here, and throughout Costa Rica.

The Innoceana team out to sea. Photo Credit: Carlos Mallo

Cano Island is one of Costa Rica’s most biologically rich marine areas, yet it’s not fully protected as a marine park. The efforts of Innoceana and their partners aim to change that, ensuring the island and its surrounding waters receive the protection they urgently need. For travelers, this presents a unique opportunity: to engage directly in conservation through citizen science while experiencing some of the best scuba diving in Costa Rica. Tourism dollars spent on Innoceana’s expeditions directly support their work and the lodge’s sustainable initiatives. While Costa Rica has made huge strides over the decades, there’s still more work to be done—similar to many other hot spots around the world.

A BLUEPRINT FOR THE FUTURE

The stories from these emerging and established MPAs remind us that the fight for Ocean conservation is far from over—but also far from hopeless. From the red crabs of Christmas Island to the oyster reefs of Scotland, and from the shark corridors of Mexico to the biodiversity of Costa Rica, these regions offer a glimpse into what is possible when science, innovation, and community come together. They stand as time capsules of resilience, demonstrating the transformative power of local stewardship and global collaboration.

Diving Cano Island, Costa Rica with Innoceana. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug

What lies ahead is a collective challenge: to protect and expand these blueprints for climate resilience while fostering sustainable relationships between humanity and the Ocean. The path forward requires urgent action, long-term commitment, and the recognition that every ecosystem, no matter how remote, is interconnected with the health of the planet. These places remind us of the Ocean’s boundless capacity for renewal—but only if given the chance.

WATCH THE STORY REEL

Mythical Oceans:
Reawakening Lost Oceanic Legends

One of the most exciting parts of being on a global diving expedition is finding oneself pulled into worlds of folklore, mythology, and deep-rooted superstition. In every corner of the planet, the Edges of Earth expedition team says they have stumbled upon tales from an ancient past—of spirits, pirates, and mythical sea creatures said to rule both the shallow waters and the high seas. Sometimes protectors, sometimes destroyers, these figures are woven into the identities of the coastal communities we’ve been fortunate to work alongside.

Now you might think that hearing foreign folklore and superstitions are exactly what they seem: colorful tales from bygone times. But after more than a year and a half living and working on the edges of earth, the wild places where nature reigns supreme, this team has found themselves rethinking everything they thought they knew. Maybe it’s the sea air or the solitude, but the lines between myth and reality start to blur after a while. Or perhaps more than anything else, these stories offer a different perspective about the people who’ve long called these waters home.

(Mysterious islands protected by spirits—Chicken Rock, New Caledonia. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

So, we’re giving you a glimpse into some of the expedition team’s favorite tales—the ones that sent them spiraling down rabbit holes for days, weeks, or even months. These are the stories that had the team chasing threads all the way to the ocean floor, trying to untangle the line between fact and fiction, fable and farce. 

THE LO TING, HONG KONG

Beneath Hong Kong’s iconic skyline lies a lesser-known realm, where history and folklore meet. The city’s waters, once a haven for pirates (or sea bandits as they are called) and smugglers, is known for wild maritime tales that many don’t even know about. In 2023, during the expedition team’s first visit, they were hit with the most rain the city has seen in its recorded history. And with that, they were forced to remain on land as their dives were sadly cancelled. But that’s when they stumbled onto the legend of the Lo Ting. 

(Looking for the Lo Ting in Hong Kong. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Believed to be half-human and half-fish, these creatures are said to have lived along the shores of Lantau Island, and represent what many consider a group of indigenous Hong Kongers. Their origins trace back to the Eastern Jin dynasty, where the story begins with Lo Chun, a military leader who, after leading a failed uprising, fled south with his followers to escape persecution. According to legend, their isolation from civilization and complete dependence on the sea led to their evolution into the Lo Ting species—marked by their distinct amphibious traits and connection to the ocean. Over time, the Lo Ting became outcasts, shunned for their differences and portrayed in art as frightening and grotesque, tragic distortions of their true identity.

(Searching for the Lo Ting in caves on remote islands around Hong Kong. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

The Lo Ting’s story reflects a larger narrative of displacement tied to Hong Kong’s Indigenous history. From the Tanka people, who lived on boats and thrived off the ocean’s resources, to the Lo Ting, who were said to have built barriers, homes, and in fact their entire lives from oyster shells, their connection to the marine environment was essential. The expedition team was working with The Nature Conservancy on an oyster reef restoration project when they heard whispers of Lo Ting descendants living in remote fishing villages, guarding the traditions and waters that define Hong Kong’s heritage. And so they went to explore these mysterious islands, wondering when and if they’d stumble upon Lo Ting in the flesh. 

It’s easy to get lost in imagination when thinking about what the vibrant underwater ecosystems must have looked like when the Lo Ting thrived. Whether as symbols of ecology or reminders of the cost of exclusion and colonization, the Lo Ting remain enigmatic guardians of Hong Kong’s storied past.

THE PIRATE QUEEN, HONG KONG

The team’s fascination with Hong Kong’s maritime folklore didn’t stop at the Lo Ting. Running parallel to these mythical sea creatures was another obsession: the region’s notorious sea bandits, led by none other than the Queen herself—Zheng Yi Sao. Often overshadowed by her male counterparts, like the infamous Cheung Po Tsai, Zheng Yi Sao’s story is nothing short of remarkable. In the early 1800s, she commanded an armada of over 1,400 pirates, united by her ironclad code of conduct that solidified her dominance over the South China Sea. Unlike most pirates of her time, she didn’t merely evade capture—she negotiated directly with imperial forces, securing terms that allowed her to retire peacefully with her vast fortune intact. Her reign stands as one of the most extraordinary examples of female leadership in history, yet her name remains an undercurrent in maritime lore rather than a headline.

(Artwork from the Hong Kong Maritime History Museum) 

During the team’s first expedition leg in Hong Kong, they heard whispers of a mysterious shipwreck, believed to date back to the late 1800s, lying hidden in the region’s tumultuous waters. Rumored to be a bandit ship, the uncharted site was veiled in secrecy and rarely visited due to the extreme conditions surrounding its location. Determined to uncover this relic of the past, they partnered with The Explorers Club Hong Kong chapter, spending nearly a year meticulously preparing for the main event. Returning to Hong Kong in November 2024, the team was met with the challenging conditions they had been warned about: surging currents, near-zero visibility, and the relentless volatility of open seas. Despite the trials—and some unrelenting seasickness—the pull of history was too strong to resist.

(Diving the unmarked and unidentified shipwreck. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

After multiple attempts and countless hours navigating the murky depths of zero visibility, they finally uncovered the wreck’s colossal anchor and rusted engine—tangible remnants of a ship that might have been linked to opium smuggling during Hong Kong’s golden age of trade and piracy. It was a visceral connection to a bygone era, one where Zheng Yi Sao and her fleet reigned supreme over these very waters. After surfacing from the dive exhausted but exhilarated, it was clear that Hong Kong’s maritime past still lingers right below the surface, waiting for those willing to honor its mysteries and uncover its hidden, and most precious, stories.

THE XIBALBA, MEXICO

The cenotes of the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico are another one on the list of mysterious and magical. They are timeless reservoirs of cultural and natural history, but also sacred portals to Xibalba, the Mayan underworld. Scattered across the peninsula, these natural sinkholes form part of the Ring of Cenotes, a circular pattern believed to mark the impact site of the ancient Chicxulub meteorite. As the expedition team explored lesser-known cenotes near the largest city of the Yucatan, Mérida, with Mayan local guardians, they were struck by their cultural significance. To the Maya, cenotes were life-giving water sources and sacred spaces where rituals, burials, and sacrifices connected the mortal world to the divine. Jill Heinerth, a renowned cave diver who has spent countless hours diving this region, calls these submerged limestone caves the “veins of earth.” And for the expedition team, with each dive, it becomes clearer why.

“A cenote, mainly found on the Yucatan Peninsula, is a natural sinkhole formed when limestone bedrock collapses, exposing groundwater beneath. They are typically freshwater filled and often connected to vast underwater cave systems.”

(Diving the Ring of Cenotes. Photo Credit: David Moore)

They said that descending into cenotes like Noh Mozon and X’Batún was like entering another world. The darkness engulfed them as we followed narrow passages illuminated only by torches, uncovering ancient artifacts and fossilized remains. The myths of aluxes, the mischievous spirits said to guard these sacred waters, lingered in their minds, especially as they encountered skeletal remnants and eerie, translucent creatures like the blind brotula fish. These cenotes are living connections to a storied past, safeguarded by local Mayan families who approach their preservation with reverence. Every decision about their use—whether for exploration or cultural practices—requires unanimous consent from all family members, ensuring these ecosystems remain respected and intact.

(Portals to the underworld in Merida, Mexico. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Yet, the cenotes and their intricate subterranean waterways face growing threats from urban sprawl, pollution, and unsustainable tourism. Recent efforts have removed over 22,000 pounds of waste from polluted cenotes, reminding us of the urgency to protect these interconnected systems. As both ecological wonders and cultural touchstones, the cenotes represent a delicate balance between past and present. However, according to Mayan tradition, the aluxes will not allow anything to be taken from these sacred waters without consequences, ensuring their mysteries remain exactly that. 

THE SPIRITS, MELANESIA

Traversing throughout Melanesia, including Vanuatu, New Caledonia, Fiji and the Solomon Islands, the expedition team encountered tale after tale of spirits that guard the islands and the ocean surrounds. When they were in Espiritu Santo, they were told all about the spirits that were watching over the sinkholes. In the Solomons, they heard of a gigantic spirit that steps from island to island as well as a tiny one who plays tricks on anyone who steps foot on the deserted island of Tetepare. But the Pacific spirit story that they loved the most came from New Caledonia—and the tale is equal parts heavy and haunted.  

(The spirits of the Tiendanite tribe. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

New Caledonia is intricately divided and complex, with layers of history and tension tied to colonization and cultural identity. As we ventured from the French-dominated south to the remote north, we encountered a nation grappling with its past. The north, still home to the Kanak people—the island’s original stewards—felt worlds away from the European-influenced streets of Nouméa. The team stayed with the Tiendanite tribe, guided by a mischievous woman herself named Davina, who has kept the 6,000-year-old Kanak traditions alive. 

(Davina teaches us about the spirits of her tribe. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

She talked of specters that roamed the village, its surrounding forests and waterways. The spirits, she explained, were protectors and tricksters, deeply tied to the river running through the tribe’s land that connected to the sea. They were said to appear at dusk, drawn to the water, and wreak havoc upon anyone who disturbed their peace—walking reminders of the losses experienced by New Caledonia resulting from colonization. But as the team immersed themselves deeper into this world, the presence of these spirits became more and more difficult to brush off. 

Whether in vivid dreams or the strange “heavy” feeling that hung over them while scuba diving or trekking in the forest, their energy lingered. Even as the team left the Tiendanite, those spirits seemed to stay with them everywhere they went. Whether in memories, or in the mud they couldn’t quite wash away, those stories would echo long after they’d moved on. 

ECHOES OF MYTH AND MYSTERY

From the haunting tales of the Lo Ting in Hong Kong to the sacred cenotes of Mexico and the enigmatic spirits of Melanesia, these stories are patterns—showing that regardless of culture, tradition, geography or region, there’s some sort of mystical connection between people and the Ocean. These legends are windows into the ways communities have understood and revered the natural world for generations. Rooted in respect, awe, and sometimes fear, these narratives carry lessons about how we can live alongside nature, the importance of preserving cultural heritage, and the unseen forces that shape our relationship with the sea.

With every new story shared, it has become clearer that these myths are not relics of a distant past but active pieces of today’s coastal cultures. They connect history, environment, and identity in ways that transcend borders and time. These stories challenge us to see the Ocean not just as a resource, but as a powerful and mysterious force, alive with meaning and memory.

WATCH THE STORY REEL

Secrets of the Sea:
Unlocking the Ocean’s Ancient Apothecary

Seaweed has been cited as a universal miracle resource. Across continents and cultures, people have recognized the power of seaweed, incorporating it into their foods, rituals, textiles, and medicine. While some may see it as little more than a slimy nuisance that washes ashore and disrupts beach days, others consider seaweed a lifeline, anchoring their livelihoods and traditions upon it. 

(Diving the kelp forests off California’s coast. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Seaweed is a type of algae, a classification that sets it apart from plants despite its photosynthetic ability. During the Edges of Earth Expedition chapter with NOAA’s National Marine Sanctuaries teams in both Channel Islands and Monterey Bay, California, they learned just how diverse and critical this marine resource is. With over 30 genera, seaweed ranges from the towering kelp forests of temperate Oceans to smaller, hardier species adapted to rocky intertidal zones. Kelp, one of the largest forms of seaweed, grows at astounding rates, creating underwater forests that serve as nurseries for fish, food for intertidal species, and vital habitats for marine life ranging from tiny invertebrates to apex predators. The ecological role seaweed plays in supporting marine biodiversity is matched only by its contributions to human life, from its uses in food to its applications towards sustainability.

As the expedition team has consciously explored the Americas to the Pacific Islands and all that’s in between, they’ve prioritized connecting with the original harvesters, local stewards, and innovative minds shaping the future using seaweed. Time and again, they’ve found that women are at the forefront of this work, continuing the traditions of their ancestors while carving new paths in aquaculture, holistic wellness, marine conservation, material science and bleeding edge innovation in sustainable tech. Whether it’s elders passing down their knowledge to younger generations or scientists leveraging seaweed’s intrinsic chemical properties to combat climate change, these women demonstrate how even ancient practices centered around seaweed still remain critical to sustaining healthy marine environments today.

(Learning about how seaweed is being used to create a more sustainable future. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Bamfield, Canada

Connie Crocker, an elder from the Pune’luxutth Tribe, is a steadfast advocate for the Ocean and the cultural heritage of First Nations peoples. Growing up on Galiano Island in British Columbia, Canada, Connie’s life revolved around the sea. Her family relied on fishing, with her father and uncles pursuing the salmon, herring, and lingcod living in abundance in these waters. But as overfishing and environmental degradation took their toll, Connie and many others were forced to leave the industry. She transitioned to a role with Fisheries and Oceans Canada, working to bridge the gap between First Nations communities and conservation initiatives. 

(Meeting Connie at Bamfield Marine Science Centre. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Today, she brings her lifelong connection to the Ocean to her work with the Kelp Rescue Initiative (KRI) at the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre, where she focuses on restoring kelp forests along Canada’s Pacific coast. KRI conducts pioneering research to understand the role of kelp in marine ecosystems and develops scalable restoration techniques, such as cultivating resilient kelp species and reseeding damaged areas. By collaborating with First Nations, scientists, policymakers, and local guardians, KRI aims to restore critical habitats while building capacity within coastal communities for the long-term protection and monitoring of these ecosystems.

(KRI’s applied seaweed science. Photo Credit: Adam Moore) 

Connie’s passion for restoring kelp was deeply personal. She often explains how kelp forests, once thriving near places like Hornby Island where she spent her youth, have been decimated by commercial gillnet herring fishing, climate change, and unchecked sea urchin populations. These underwater ecosystems are vital to the marine life her community has depended on for generations. By blending traditional ecological knowledge with cutting-edge research at the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre, Connie works with marine biologists to engage First Nations communities in kelp restoration efforts, empowering them to steward the waters they’ve called home for centuries. For Connie, this work is all about preserving a way of life and ensuring the next generation can inherit an Ocean rich with kelp—as it once was in her younger years.

Monterey, California 

Julia Marsh, the Co-Founder and CEO of Sway, is at the forefront of revolutionizing the packaging industry with seaweed-based materials that promise to upend the world’s reliance on single-use plastics. Growing up on the shores of the iconic Monterey, California, her love for the Ocean and natural world started early. Surrounded by the stunning beaches and tide pools of Monterey Bay, Julia spent countless hours exploring her coastal ecosystems with her father and hiking the nearby redwood forests. These early experiences, paired with her parents’ ethos of “leave it better than you found it,” instilled in her a lifelong commitment to sustainability.

(In the Sway Lab in San Francisco looking at new material science applied. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Years later, as a designer, Julia saw firsthand how material choices contributed to the plastics crisis and realized she could merge her creative expertise with her love for the Ocean. This epiphany led to the founding of Sway, where she has pioneered the use of seaweed to create compostable and renewable packaging solutions. Sway’s lab outside San Francisco is where her vision is put to action—examining seaweed-derived materials that have been adopted by brands like J.Crew and Burton. 

(Julia Marsh showing the Edges of Earth team her childhood home. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Guided by her authentic passion and a reverence for nature, Julia and her team are proving that innovation and environmentalism can go hand in hand, reshaping industries while staying true to their values. Their groundbreaking work was recognized with the prestigious 2023 Tom Ford Plastic Innovation Prize, a milestone that has helped propel their seaweed-based packaging solutions toward a broader market with a greater environmental impact.

Toba, Japan 

In the quiet coastal corners of Japan, the Ama—”sea women”—have practiced their craft for centuries, diving to harvest the Ocean’s bounty on just a single breath. Kiku Ezaki and Aiko Ohno, both living in the Shima region, are the living proof of the Ama’s sheer skill. Kiku, a spirited Ama diver and owner of a ryokan (a traditional family-operated inn), offers a rare glimpse into the legacy of her community. Aiko, the youngest Ama in the region at just 44, stood out as something of a bridge between tradition and modernity. As a celebrated photographer, she documents the Ama way of life, ensuring its beauty and significance are shared with the world—and in hopes to recruit the next generation of Ama divers.

(Prepping for a dive with Kiku and Aiko in Japan. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

The Ama’s history in Japan dates back over 2,000 years, making them one of the oldest known diving communities in the world. The Ama have perfected the art of freediving, plunging to depths of 3 to 20 meters on a single breath to harvest seafood for their communities, such as abalone, seaweed, and shellfish. For centuries, they have passed their skills down across generations, creating a tradition connected to the sea. Though their numbers have declined dramatically in recent decades due to Japan’s urbanization as well as other environmental changes, the Ama remains a symbol of strength, independence, and sustainable living in alignment with nature.

(Celebrating a first meal with the traditional Ama harvesters. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)

Diving with Kiku and Aiko near the Mitsu Island chain and sharing a meal of traditionally harvested seafood offered a rare glimpse into the world of the Ama. Watching them glide effortlessly through the water in search of urchins and seaweed revealed their unparalleled skill and deep connection to the Ocean. Yet, Kiku and Aiko’s focus extends far beyond the present—they are deeply concerned about the future of the Ama. Recruitment of younger divers is an ongoing challenge, but both women emphasized climate change as their greatest threat. As marine life diminishes and ecosystems shift, the Ama are compelled to adapt not only their techniques but also their roles as guardians of the Ocean. Through ecotourism, Kiku and Aiko are raising awareness of the environmental challenges they face, turning their struggle into a powerful global call to action.

Munda, Solomon Islands

In the remote corner of the Solomon Islands, there’s the women of Nusa Roviana in Roviana Lagoon, who embody a deep connection to the Ocean through their practice of harvesting sea grapes. They’re not actually grapes however, but rather an edible seaweed known locally as ime, which also is their community’s prized seafood. Using only a diving mask and their breath-hold skill, these women dive right from their canoes, scouring the reefs for three varieties of sea grapes: round, feathered, and bell-shaped. 

(Traditional practices to harvest sea grapes. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug) 

These seaweeds grow in shallow waters between 3 to 5 meters deep, thriving in the nutrient-rich lagoons of the archipelago. Among these, Caulerpa lentillifera is particularly prized, often referred to as “green caviar” for its delicate, bead-like structure and crisp, refreshing taste. This species is not only a sought-after delicacy in local markets but also valued in broader regional cuisines. The sea grapes grow quickly and regenerate within just three weeks, serving as both a vital source of nutrition and a crucial income stream for these women’s families. The women’s harvesting practices are all about being as sustainable as possible, with designated seasonal areas and strict adherence to traditional methods passed down through generations. By rotating harvest locations, they ensure the seaweed can regenerate and maintain the delicate balance of their lagoon’s ecosystem.

(Diving to five meters for a harvest. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug) 

While these women’s practices often go unnoticed compared to their counterparts like Japan’s Ama or South Korea’s Haenyeo, their method is both practical and intuitive. After harvesting, they meticulously clean the grapes, as quality dictates market value. Every dive is a nod to the centuries-old practice that remains vital to their way of life.

Kona, Hawaii

Lastly, there’s Symbrosia, the high-growth startup that is offering a solution to one of the planet’s most pressing challenges: livestock methane emissions. At the heart of this groundbreaking work is Alexia Akbay, Founder and CEO, armed with a background in green chemistry and a passion for tackling climate change. Her vision culminated in the development of SeaGraze, a livestock feed additive derived from the red seaweed Asparagopsis taxiformis. By incorporating just a small amount of SeaGraze into livestock diets, methane emissions—a major contributor to global warming—can be reduced by over 90%. 

(Searching for the right kind of seaweed with the Symbrosia team. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug)

Symbrosia employs an innovative aquaculture system to sustainably produce their revolutionary product, SeaGraze. Rather than depleting natural ecosystems through wild harvesting, the team carefully cultivates small “puffs” of Asparagopsis in controlled environments. The process begins in sterile wet labs, where nutrient-rich water is filtered and tailored to just the right conditions for optimal growth. Once the seaweed matures, it is transferred to outdoor photobioreactors—specialized tanks that mimic natural conditions while enhancing the production of bromoform, the compound responsible for methane reduction. After reaching the desired density and chemical composition, the seaweed is harvested, freeze-dried to preserve its nutrients, and processed into its final form. This method ensures consistency, scalability, and sustainability, allowing Symbrosia to meet growing demand without compromising environmental integrity.

(The seaweed puffs in the lab. Photo Credit: Marla Tomorug) 

From the tide pools where Asparagopsis begins its journey to the labs where it is transformed into SeaGraze, the dedication and shared purpose among the team were palpable. Symbrosia’s thoughtful approach may not overhaul the livestock industry overnight, but it’s clear they’re on the fast track to creating real, scalable change—and a much-needed one in today’s fight against climate change.

The Power of the Ocean’s Apothecary

From the kelp forests of Canada to the red seaweed innovations of Hawaii, the stories of seaweed’s impact are undeniable. Around the globe, traditional harvesters, scientists, and entrepreneurs are harnessing this ancient resource to restore ecosystems, preserve cultural traditions, and tackle some of the planet’s most urgent environmental challenges. Seaweed has long been a cornerstone of sustainability, offering solutions that seamlessly bridge tradition and innovation. And it still is today. 

As the Ocean faces unprecedented threats, the individuals and communities championing seaweed’s potential are leading the charge toward a more sustainable future. Protecting and expanding this vital resource not only ensures its ecological benefits but deepens humanity’s connection to the Ocean itself. With cutting-edge thinkers reimagining outdated systems and traditional practitioners sustaining life through centuries-old methods, seaweed can safely be called a true miracle algae—one that deserves to be celebrated by all of us, in every possible way.

Coming Soon – Check out the latest story reel